“The island either accepts you or rejects you.”
We were to often hear this over the seven unforgettable days we spent in Kauai, the ‘Garden Isle’ of Hawaii. It was only after we had booked our tickets and made all the arrangements that I realized that Kauai is not typically the first choice for anyone looking for a quick trip to Hawaii over Thanksgiving. Oahu, Big Island, and Maui are way more touristy than this relatively sleepy and laid back island. M and I had never been to the Hawaiian islands and we wanted a proper 10-day day vacation, and not just a quick get away.
The friends and family I checked with had all either gone to Big Island or Maui. And then I spoke to my former boss, a prominent Asian entrepreneur who owns a home in Kauai and has been visiting the islands for a decade. He recommended that we visit Oahu and Kauai, two very different islands which offer two very different experiences. He also generously offered us his home in Kauai for our stay! That pretty much sealed the deal for us. We spent 3 fabulous days in and around the Waikiki beach area in Oahu soaking in the sun and sand and found ourselves taking a tiny plane from Honolulu to Lihue (Kauai).
We arrived in Kauai late Monday afternoon after Thanksgiving just as the sun was about to set, in one of the smallest airports I’ve ever landed in. We took the shuttle to our car rental place and were greeted by two smiling locals dressed in shorts and Aloha shirts. As I was to discover, everyone in Kauai pretty much dresses that way, every day, for work! By the time we got our car and got on the narrow, two-lane highway that goes through most of the navigable island, it was dark and eerily quiet. The city lights of Honolulu, the sound of music wafting in the breeze from bars and restaurants in Waikiki, and the holidaying tourists looking for a party that we got so used to seeing each night, might as well as been in a different country!
We were staying in Wailua Homesteads, near Kapa’a on the Eastern side of the island, a residential community with beautiful homes with massive gardens overflowing with fruit trees and wild flowers. I don’t think I saw a single soul out in the streets after sunset! We drove to downtown Kapa’a to stock up on some groceries and get some food and stumbled across an Indian restaurant called Shivalik. We hadn’t eaten Indian food in days and the desi in us just couldn’t resist going in.
Big mistake. Apart from the fact that the food was absolute rubbish, the place was overpriced, and the service appalling. If any of you reading this crave Indian food while you are visiting Kauai, please do not visit this place.
After this rather sorry, dubious start to our stay, I wasn’t sure what to expect over the next few days. I was already missing Oahu and its beaches. Little did I know that the next one week would completely transform my perspective and I would have completely normal conversations with strangers about the ‘power of the island and how it draws you in’!
Kauai is known as the ‘island of discovery‘ and I understand now what that means. Over the next week, we explored, we discovered, and we fell in love. Mor than 80% of the island is uninhabited and inaccessible by road. And yet, one visit is not enough to discover the hidden secrets of Kauai.
We hiked in the rainforests, beaches and trails of the dramatic mountain ridges. We kayaked the Wailua river, swam in the waterfalls, ziplined through the stunning lush green valleys, and drove up to the edge of nature’s own time swept chasm of the Waimea Canyon. We rode the choppy waters of the Pacific Ocean in a motorized raft along the dramatic and beautiful Na Pali coast as dolphins played around us and whales dived under the surface each time we thought we spotted them. We flew over the island on a rare, clear, sunny day and breathed it all in. And with each passing day, we were falling hopelessly and helplessly in love with the island that was formed by an exploding volcano six million years ago.
Here are my top 8 recommendations for a memorable Kauai experience.
1. Ziplining
This has been on my bucket list for a while and Kauai was the perfect place to tick this one off. Because Kauai is so rugged and green, with rain forests, mountains and rivers all over the island, it’s a surprise there is no zipline running right through the island. We signed up with Skyline Eco Adventures for a 5 line zip experience. (They also offer 8 lines).
After a quick safety briefing at the Skyline Adventures office in downtown Poipu, we geared up with the harness and the safety helmet and boarded a van that took us on a 10 min ride to our first Zip stop. We had to hike up a bit with the heavy harness around the waist (that was my cardio for the day!) and there it was, the first platform perched at the edge of a sloping hill.
I watched others take off one by one and zip their way through the lush green valley. And then it was my turn. My harness was attached to the trolley that rides on the steel cable and I was asked to just jump! And then I was taking off, soaring through the air, high above the jungle canopy. In barely 45 seconds I was on the other side. But those 45 seconds were glorious! I got a bird’s eye view of the valley filled with the unmistakable light green of the native Hawaiian Kukui trees, and glimpses of the Pacific ocean between the mountain ridges.
Zipping on 5 lines takes around 2.5 hours. With each new line, we hiked just a little further up, and each new line provided more adventures. On the last line, I was spinning around, doing a 360 degree turn on the line and screaming in exhilaration!
I also rented a hand-held GoPro from their office to capture my first ever zip ride. For $40 you get either a helmet version or a handheld, and they give you the SD card at the end of the adventure.
2. Kayak the Wailua River
This was perhaps my most favorite experience in Kauai. It was a fantastic combination of nature, hiking, kayaking, and history. This would be definitely my #1 recommendation for anyone who enjoys the outdoors. The Wailua river is 20 miles long and weaves by gorgeous waterfalls and lush, jungle landscapes. You can spend an entire day exploring the Wailua River Valley and experiencing everything it has to offer.
We spent an amazing day here experiencing the best of nature. We started with a 2-mile kayak ride up the Wailua river (insane upper body workout!), then parked the kayaks deep in the forest and hiked a mile through ancient Hawaiian forests, slippery muddy trails, climbed up rocks, waded through waist-deep river and finally reached the breathtaking Uluwehi Falls, also known as Secret Falls. Once there, we jumped into the natural tidal pool created by the falls and swam in it. (freezing at this time of the year!)
From there, we took a different hiking trail back to our kayaks through the ancient Queen’s bathing place and many other sacred Hawaiian spots. Another mile-long hike through the jungle, mud, rocks, and slush along the serene Wailua river and we were back on the Kayak, wet and covered in mud, but thrilled to have experienced Kauai’s hidden treasures. On the kayak ride back to the marina our guide pointed out Jamun trees along the river bank and we kayaked up to the low hanging branches and plucked some Jamun berries to snack on. We arrived back at the marina a full 5 hours after we started this morning and I can feel every muscle in my body screaming! But I could not be happier.
Traveler Tips:
- Don’t forget to carry a light lunch and snacks on this adventure. You will be starving by the time you reach the waterfalls.
- Wear shorts, and water shoes. You will be walking through streams, rivers, and muddy trails.
- We booked through Kayak Wailua, and I highly recommend them. If you get Lisa as your guide, she’s fantastic! She was super knowledgeable about the plants and trees in the valley, local legends, sacred sites and local history. On the hike back to the kayaks, she gave us a truly authentic local experience by leading the group, playing a traditional drum!
4. Take a Boat ride along the Na Pali Coast
The dramatic Na Pali coastline is only accessible by foot or by boat. We drove about an hour from the eastern side on the Kuhio highway to get to the marina at Kikiaola Harbor in Waimea, the Western Shore of Kauai. Around 9 of us had signed up for the 7.30 AM tour that lasts for around 4 hours. We got on a motorized raft, which we soon realized is a very different experience from riding on a catamaran, which allows you to move about.
We spent the next four hours riding the entire 17-mile Na Pali coast lined by 3,000-foot fluted mountain peaks, dotted with waterfalls, sea caves and black lava rock formations jutting out of the turquoise waters, and hanging out with schools of dolphins that like to come out and play with humans. I was starting to see why so many people call this the most spectacular coastline in the world.
Unfortunately for us, the raft experience wasn’t fun, since riding a raft limits mobility, and you have to hold on for dear life to the safety ropes as it makes its way on the choppy waters. In the beginning, it was fun, but when that defines your entire 4-hour experience, you just want it to end!
Also, on a clear, calm day, some of the tour companies allow you to jump into the waters and snorkel or swim. Our tour company claimed it wasn’t an ideal day, though I could see other catamarans at a distance from which people were getting into the water.
We used Na Pali Riders for this tour. I would not recommend them to anyone.
This is also the time of the year when Humpback Whales are traveling from Alaska to Hawaii. We thought we spotted at least 3 of them at a distance, but they were too far away and disappeared before we got a good look at them.
5. Fly over the island in a Helicopter
The best way to see Kauai is from up above! From the gorgeous Na Pali Coast to the breathtaking Waimea Canyon, the only way to really appreciate the awe-inspiring beauty of Kauai is from the air. We chartered a 2 passenger Cessna for a 70 min tour of the island with a very knowledgeable pilot who pointed out all the amazing sights and the hidden spots as we flew over them. It was an exceptionally clear day with great visibility and even Doug was amazed at how all the colors of the island just popped!
We flew over the Na Pali coast, the Waimea Canyon, the many different waterfalls and beaches, the important cultural sites and the original volcano crater that caused the creation of the island of Kauai millions of years ago. I recommend this ‘air tour’ to anyone visiting Kauai since the island is 80% uninhabited and inaccessible by roads. So the best way to see it all and take it all in is from up above!
I highly recommend Wings Over Kauai if you want to charter a helicopter or a Cessna to fly over Kauai. Love their service (Thank you, Mary) and their pilot Doug, who knew so much about the island, even though he is not from Hawaii.
6. Visit the Kauai Hindu Monastery
When thinking of things to do in Kauai, visiting a Hindu monastery is probably not the first thing that comes to mind. Many visitors to Kauai don’t even know the monastery exists. The only reason I know about it is thanks to my aforementioned former boss, who is a patron of the monastery. We were lucky to be staying barely 100 meters away from this hidden treasure, and even though I had heard so much about this place over the years and read about it online, nothing prepared me for the sights that lay beyond the almost hidden gates of the monastery at the end of a quiet residential road in Wailua Homesteads.
Kauai’s Hindu Monastery was founded by Satguru Sivaya Subramuniyaswami, referred to respectfully as Gurudeva, who was born Robert Hansen in California in 1927. Gurudeva’s parents died when he was young and he was raised by dancers. He was trained in dance and yoga and became the principal dancer of the San Francisco Ballet Company. After World War II he traveled to Sri Lanka to find a guru. While in Sri Lanka he was initiated by Guru Yogaswami. Gurudeva returned to the United States and started the first Hindu temple in San Francisco in 1957.
He started the Kauai Hindu Monastery in 1970. This is unlike any other holy place I have ever visited. The monastery is covered in 363 acres of lush greenery and a part of the Wailua river flows through it. There are beautiful botanical gardens, exotic plants, fruit laden trees, and an overall sense of peace and tranquillity. If not for the occasional glimpse of the saffron-clad monks, you could almost believe you were in some tropical resort. (The grounds of the monastery was once the Tropical Inn, that Gurudeva had stayed in).
The Kadavul temple houses the main deity, a stunning crystal shivalinga and an idol of Lord Nataraja (a form of Shiva). Main prayers are held every morning at 9 am. A guided tour is conducted once a week for visitors, and everyone is welcome irrespective of their faith.
The monastery is also building a Chola style Iraivan temple using traditional methods without any nails or steel. It’s a beautiful all granite structure and all stones are being carved in Bangalore, in India, and assembled in Kauai. Stone craftsmen from India regularly visit the temple to complete the carving process on site. Some of the stones take years to carve. We saw six-feet long chains carved entirely from one stone!
Grounds of the monastery are dotted with many delicately carved granite idols of Hindu Gods. If you take the guided tour, you will pass by the Kadavul Temple through the botanical gardens to the area at the back where the Iraivan Temple is being built.
About half a mile from the monastery grounds is a majestic grove of sacred Rudraksha trees, planted originally by Gurudeva himself. This is apparently the first rudraksha grove in the Western Hemisphere. As I walked into the grove, I was overwhelmed by the sight of thousands of rudraksha beads fallen on the forest floor! I was just running around picking them up while M looked on super amused.
It is believed that if you hug a rudraksha tree, it will take away your pain and stress. Rudrakshas are sacred to Hindus, believed to be Lord Shiva’s tears. Many people I know wear them as either a necklace or a bracelet. Many others use it as a japamala (prayer beads) for chanting.
We visited the monastery twice during our week long stay, once for the guided tour and the next time on the day of our departure. I attended the main prayers on the morning of our flight, and it was truly moving. I walked away with an unusual sense of peace and calm after a highly energetic holiday. There is something about the place. It’s hard to describe in words. I just know that I will be going back there again.
7. Drive up to the Waimea Canyon Lookout
Waimea Canyon is Hawaii’s answer to the Grand Canyon. It’s located on the western side of the island and we combined our Na Pali coast ride with a drive to the lookout. In an interesting twist, this area is also one of the driest and hottest places on an island known for its lush greenery and tropical showers. Kauai is incidentally home to Mount Waia’le’ale, one of the wettest spots on earth.
We drove up a narrow winding 2-lane highway and reached the highest lookout point at 3500 feet to find it overrun with clacking wild chicken, and an enterprising Thai lady selling refreshing coconut water at the parking lot! She was doing brisk business, and the chicken were roaming about pecking on scraps of coconut being thrown by the tourists.
We got to the lookout point that gives you a stunning, panoramic view of the canyon, and were awestruck by its ancient beauty. The beautiful shades of red from the lava beds are bursting with color.
The Canyon stretches approximately 12 miles long, one mile wide and is over 3,500 feet deep. A massive earthquake millions of years ago sent a number of streams into the single river that ultimately carved this picturesque canyon. Today, the Waimea River — a silvery thread of water in the gorge that’s sometimes a trickle, often a torrent, but always there — keeps cutting the canyon deeper and wider, and nobody can say what the result will be 100 million years from now.
There are plenty of hiking trails around this location if you are looking for great hikes. My knees had been acting up that day, thanks to the daily hikes on the rugged mountains, for the last few days. So, we skipped hiking down the Canyon. Next time, we hope to hike the Awa’wapuhi trail and the Alakai Swamp Trail.
8. Hike. Hike. and Hike some more.
The Hawaiian islands are home to some of the most beautiful and adventurous trails in the world. They have everything from breezy walks through the tropical woods to daring ridge hikes that offer 360-degree views of the Pacific Ocean. Obviously, everyone has their favorite hikes, and I doubt there is a clear cut winner.
Of all the hikes that M and I went on during our 10-day stay on the islands of Oahu and Kauai, these are my favorites.
(Click on each name to read about the hike)
- Mahaulepu Heritage Trail (Kauai, South Shore)
- Okolehau Trail (Kauai, North Shore)
- Sleeping Giant (Kauai, Eastern Side)
- Manoa Falls (Oahu)
Bonus : Eat at the Art Cafe Hemingway
This has got to be one of my all time favorite restaurants ever. It helps that I’m a Hemingway fan, but that aside, I love the choice of food, the decor of the place, the menu design, the box in which the cheque is presented and the cozy ambience.
A special Hemingway breakfast section includes an interesting selection of dishes named after his works. I picked one called ‘For whom the bell tolls’ — the most perfect, fluffy and moist scrambled eggs, soft fresh whole-grain bread, a warm baguette, and a delicious coffee, everything served in beautiful blue plates and vintage glass tumblers. If you visit Kauai, make it a point to eat at least one meal at the Art Cafe Hemingway!
